Impact of half crimp Strength-to-Weight Ratio on Rock Climbing and Bouldering grades
Research Started: Jan 2017
Release date: March 2018
Author: Aman Anderson
Status: Published
Sponsor: American Alpine Club
Summary
There are not many studies out that assess strength-to-bodyweight ratio in the context of how they apply to performance in rock climbing and bouldering. In the present study, we explored individual differences in climber’s strength-to-weight ratios in a gym setting. We also examined muscular rate and tendon adaptation related to climbing.
Purpose: To evaluate the role to developing muscular strength-to-weight ratios in sport climbers and boulderers.
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Aerobic Power and Wattage Breakdown in Correlation to Sport Climbing Grades
Nov 14, 2017
Author: Aman Anderson
The team over at KörperForce has begun to collect data on wattage output of a sport climbers over a span of 5 minutes and correlate wattage to sport climbing grades. When topics of over-use injuries and growth plate fractures are in the mix, it leads to more conservative and methodological approaches to training. Attaining success without putting an athlete out for 6 months with a finger pulley injury is important—when each competition is of critical importance to an athletes career.
Training smarter is the key. Athlete or coach can focus more time on training at intensities meant to improve an athletes lactate threshold, wattage output—and help athletes with Olympic goals in hopes to making it to the top.
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Grip strength Tendon adaption and mechanical loading with the Grippūl
Research Started: May 2017
Release date: TBA
Status: In progress
We endeavored to see how long it would take to influence tendon mechanical loading with the Grippūl using studied modalities working at 70-80% of maximal voluntary contraction. This study started in May of 2017.
The study started with one climber, more climbers were added in the middle of the study, and their data will be released in 6 months. Recovery modalities will be listed as well is the role Denver Sports Recovery, based in Denver, CO, played in the process.
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Athlete Forecast for Climbers
Research Started: May 2017
Release date: TBA
Status: In progress
Summary
This data-sheet is focused on assessing predictive models and probability for rock climbers. In order to make the predictions on where an athletes performance will be throughout the year. Using this model we propose that injuries would be reduced with emphasis placed on incremental progress that can be quantified and qualified.
This coincides with our other study; "The Role of Muscular Strength-to-weight ratios in rock climbing and bouldering". Based on our data gathered over the year, we theorized that if a training protocol is carried out correctly there can predictive tendon rate adaption that would yield gains in climbing.
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